London Calling: AW13 Trends from LFW
No longer content with being the little brother (or sister, we’re all about equal rights here) of the fashion week season, London has, thanks to the investment and support of the British Fashion Council as well as the committment of exciting designers new and established, had its biggest week to date. And what a week it was, with exciting new trends, colours and concepts ready to be embraced. MAGNIFECO was there for all the action and to bring the AW13 trends direct to your desk…
Man seeking woman seeking man
While colour took centre stage for the SS13 shows, the big hitter for fall is shape – statement and oversized at that. From 1960s-inspired boxy silhouettes at Thomas Tait and oversized offers at John Rocha and Vivienne Westwood to feminine flares and Mad Men-esque shapes from Orla Kiely, a nod to the androgynous was present in nearly every colleciton, mixed with references to popular mid-20th century culture.
The key to working this trend is ensuring that any feminine shapes are highly structured and any masculine silhouettes are softened with light fabrics and touches of ladylike detail. For example, the new shape skirt as seen at Issa combines just-below-the-knee length with soft tailoring in robust fabrics to create a smart yet feminine shape.
Hips and shoulders
Hand-in-hand with structured femininity were the new season shoulder shapes and hips, creating as much or as little statement style as desired. At Bora Aksu, we saw no fewer than seven shoulder types on this 1920s-inspired runway that fused classic styles with contemporary accents for a female form not to be messed with. Mary Katranzou went big and digital print maestros Peter Pilotto embraced extended capped sleeves, sloped shoulders and elegant peekaboo cape detail.
Meanwhile, David Koma and International Woolmark Prize finalists Pankaj & Nidhi chose to concentrate on the hips. A real evolution from the peplum that fashion went mad for last season, hyper-structured shapes that emphasised the figure were decidely more grown up, taking inspiration from art and architecture.
Neck and neck
Taking the new grown up androgyny forward and adding the all important (but often overlooked) detail were the likes of knitwear genius Mark Fast, David Koma and royal favourite Roksanda Ilincic with collars of every description. From Peter Pan and tailored to embellished and knitted, each brought a different personality to the runway and creating collars is something that is so easy to do at home.
If collars aren’t your thing then fear not as elegant necklines, from inverted Vs to asymmetric to origami-inspired, were big on the catwalk. Fyodor Golan went for soft tailoring, with suspended necklines complete with folds and pleats while Peter Pilotto mixed bold prints with simple slash, boat and v-necks.
With strong silhouettes and bold details came big texture in every form. Cara Delevingne carried the bright, oversized texture of Sister by Sibling with grace and style while Mark Fast used gorgeous feather-like effects for a feminine finish and ethical hero Christopher Raeburn looked to quilted detail for a sports look. Luxurious fabrics are key to this trend, with a mixture of leather, chiffon and high shine finishes at Eudon Choi, David Koma and Sass & Bide the perfect juxtaposition of brooding moods and light accents.
Although a lot of attention has been on shape for the AW13 season, colour is still important, either in the form of prints or block colour. Geometric prints have gone arty and a little bit abstract at Jean-Pierre Braganza while 1960s chevrons at Sass & Bide and punk floral notes at Clements Ribeiro add an edge. Pops of pink and purple on a neutral base are ideal for adding a bit of personality to a smart look and clashing jewel tones at Paul Smith look very sophisticated.